8/7/2023 0 Comments Urban decay quickie concealerIt gives a nice “soft touch” feeling and makes the products pleasant to use. Touch: our fermented sugar is not only good to the skin, but it also feels great on the skin. That is especially nice for fragile, sensitive skin. And the quicker cell renewal is good because it helps the regeneration of the barrier function. Resurfacing: The sirtuin-1 stimulation also results in quicker cell renewal - something that happens anyway but slows down as we age. This is supposed to help our skin cells to live longer, and function better. After 8 hours both had similar moisturizing effect.Īnti-aging: According to ex-vivo tests (meaning not on humans, so do not trust it too much) Biosaccharide Gum-1 can stimulate a protein in our skin called sirtuin-1. HA has a quicker effect and provides more instant hydration (much more hydration was measured after 1h of application), while our nice sugar has a somewhat delayed effect demonstrating stronger hydration after 3h of application. Moisturizing: Compared to famous hyaluronic acid, it turns out that the two are great together. The result was good: the tingling was decreased by 47%. Soothing: the manufacturer tested out the soothing effect in vivo (meaning on humans that is always a good thing!) by measuring how 3% Biosaccharide Gum-1 decreased the tingling sensation caused by 10% lactic acid. However, it is hard to know how much pure vitamin C or THDA can be thanked.īottom line: a really promising, but not well-proven vitamin C derivative that can be worth a try especially if you like experimenting (but if you like the tried and true, pure vitamin C will be your best bet). The study was a small (10 patients), double-blind experiment, and the formula did show some measurable anti-aging results. The authors theorized that the 10% AA is released slowly from the silicon delivery system and probably stays in the upper layer of the skin to give antioxidant benefits, while THDA penetrates more rapidly and deeply and gives some wrinkle-reducing benefits. We could find Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate mentioned only in one published in-vivo study that examined the anti-aging properties of a silicone formula containing 10% AA and 7% THDA. So this all sounds really great, but these are only in-vitro results at this point. Third, THDA seems to have all three magic abilities of pure vitamin C: it gives antioxidant protection from both UVB and UVA rays, it increases collagen synthesis (even more than AA) and it has a skin brightening effect by reducing melanogenesis by more than 80% in human melanoma cell cultures. There is also in-vitro data showing that it converts to AA in the skin. So great in fact, that it surpasses the penetration of pure vitamin C threefold at the same concentration and it penetrates successfully into the deeper layers of the skin (that is usually important to do some anti-aging work). Second, because it's oil-soluble, its skin penetration abilities seem to be great. First, it is stable (if pH < 5), easy to formulate, and a joy to work with for a cosmetic chemist. With this context in mind let's see what THDA might be able to do. In addition, vitamin C's three magic properties (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener) are all properly proven in-vivo (on real people), but for the derivatives, it's mostly in-vitro studies or in the case of THDA, it's in-vitro and done by an ingredient supplier. It's a really promising candidate (see below), but while reading all the goodness about it in a minute, do not forget that derivatives not only have to be absorbed into the skin but also have to be converted to pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid or AA) and the efficacy of the conversion is often unknown. Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |